The New Surf & Turf

The local Maui beef, like this ribeye prepped by the Maui Culinary Academy, not only has a sweet and gamey grass-fed taste that is unique to the Islands, but also a direct lineage to the cow herds of Western Canada.

CATTLE GRAZING ON MAUI today are descendents of cows brought to Hawaii in 1873 by Captain George Vancouver (namesake of Canada’s fair city), starting what is the state’s $100-million ranching industry.

On Maui, modern ranchers are honouring those roots by producing all-natural, grass-fed beef free of growth stimulants or antibiotics. With the worn-in boots and easy gait of a paniolo

(Hawaiian cowboy), Alex Franco walks me through the hilly volcanic slopes of Haleakala Ranch in central Maui, founded in 1888 and one of six family farms that formed the Maui Cattle Company in 2002. The managing director of the partnership explains: “Our goal is to produce a local product that is raised by people here, who are the fabric of this island.” He points to goats and sheep dotting the hills, part of a natural grazing, pasture-rotation program that eliminates the need for chemicals or herbicides.

Because these cows graze on tropical grasses like Bermuda, apica and kukui (as well as sugar cane tops), the meat is richer in vitamins E and A (beta carotene) and linoleic and omega 3 fatty acids—“the good cholesterol,” Franco adds. The big-eared, thick-shouldered Gilvey cows are relatively small (750 to 800 pounds) and have the unmistakable features of their Angus forebearers. Some have shaggy hair and beards; others have innocent white faces, smeared dark around the mouths (with a natural molasses supplement), like naughty children caught dipping into chocolate.

Because grass-fed cattle get more exercise and a leaner diet, toughness of the meat can be a drawback. Franco explains that aging—typically, dry-aging for 14 days followed by up to 30 days of wet-aging—results in consistently tender, succulent beef.

After slicing into Maui Cattle Company steaks at some of the island’s best restaurants, we’d have to agree.

Ko Restaurant at the Fairmont Kea Lani in Wailea (4100 Wailea Alanui Dr., 808-875-4100, fairmont.com) celebrates Hawaii’s diverse culinary heritage, encompassing everything from Korean, Chinese and Japanese to Portuguese, Filipino and North American influences. Seated under a private dining tent poolside at the exotic, Moorish-influenced hotel, I order a thick bone-in ribeye, meticulously butchered to resemble a giant Fred Flintstone-style chop. Cooked medium-rare, the steak is juicy and beautifully marbled, nearly fork-tender and bursting with the distinctive, slightly gamey taste of grass-fed beef.

A few nights later, I compare a boneless ribeye at Merriman’s Kapalua (One Bay Club Pl., 808-669-6400, merrimanshawaii.com), where the glassed-in dining room has stunning sunset views from its perch literally at the northwest tip of Maui. It’s the newest outpost of star farm-to-table chef Peter Merriman, who follows a “90 percent rule” for local, sustainable products at his restaurants, including Maui Cattle Company filet and rib-eye steaks. The rib-eye here has a seriously salted crust and succulent interior, complemented by a blue-cheese butter melting into the meat and truffle-parmesan French fries on the side: a natural, traditional food elevated to modern gourmet. wl